Have you ever thought about a deceased person you might want to share a meal with? Maybe a famous actress, artist, or musician who has passed long ago? Or perhaps you would like to share one last meal with a dear loved one? My question
for you is not who, rather what are you waiting for? Many cultures around the world, including the United States, either actively celebrate and feast in cemeteries, or did at some point in their history. While this may sound oddly macabre depending on your cultural upbringing, dining with the dead is a common practice that has been going on for centuries.
The country of Georgia holds a rich tradition of graveyard dining throughout the year, especially during the holiday of Orthodox Easter. Families gather in cemeteries carrying picnic blankets, food, and wine. It is Georgian tradition to pour an entire glass of wine over top the grave before eating in order to honor the departed. One of their favorite culinary delights to indulge upon during this time is
Easter cake. This desert is made from butter, eggs, and sugar, which are not eaten for forty days leading up to the holiday. Families look forward to this holiday each year as a fun day to connect with the memory of the loved ones who have passed.
Greece is another country that is known to break bread among the dead. The first Sunday after Easter marks the remembrance of Saint Thomas. On this day, families gather in cemeteries to picnic on the graves of their loved ones. The rich tradition of picnicking at Greek gravesites dates all the way back to Homeric times. Families will spend some time cleaning the headstones and grounds before
preparing the meal. Meals vary and depend largely on what the deceased would love to eat while they were alive. Attendees are expected to be jovial, as crying is not appropriate to do on this day. Generations both old and young take advantage of
this opportunity to spend quality time together and to share memories of the dearly departed.
Dia De Los Muertos is a popular Mexican holiday that honors the dead, and is celebrated on November 1st to 2nd each year. Families adorn homes, businesses, and cemeteries with flowers, vibrantly painted skulls, and ofrendas or offerings for thedeceased. These offerings might include the dinner, deserts, or even alcohol beloved by the departed family members. According to the website dayofthedead.holiday, “It is also not uncommon for families to share a holiday meal and drinks at the
cemetery beside the graves of the deceased. Often, stories and anecdotes about the loved ones will be shared as families gather to eat.” Some common foods you might come across during this celebration in cemeteries include pan de muertos, a hearty
baked bread, mole negro, a dark sauce made from peppers and chocolate, and flan, a sweet caramel pudding dessert. While many families make these dishes at home, it is not uncommon to encounter street vendors close by who offer the dishes for
cemetery attendees to purchase before they arrive.
The Philippines recognize All Saints Day as a time to honor the deceased with a home cooked meal in the local cemetery. Much planning goes into each families’ choice of culinary offerings. They make their favorite snacks, dishes, and desserts to honor the memories of those who have passed. This family gathering often reunites people who may not see one another for long periods of time. Folks who are unable to bring food from home can purchase street food from sellers who line the outskirts of the cemeteries. They offer traditional items such as fried
squid, steamed rice patties known as puto, and sweet cassava cake for desert.
Guatemalans celebrate the dead with festivities of All Souls’ Day on November 2nd each year. Families adorn the graves of loved ones with photographs, flowers, water, candles, and food. In some regions such as Alta Verapaz, families also
share a meal at the cemetery during this celebration. A popular beverage made of sugarcane, known as b'oj, is commonly passed around for people to sip on. Vibrant music played by local bands helps to create an uplifting atmosphere for everyone to enjoy.
In Japan many celebrate the dead by participating in the tradition of ohaka mairi, which translates to “to visit the dead.” While ohaka mairi can happen anytime, most people observe this during Japan’s holiday that celebrates the dead
known as obon. This is an ancient celebration of the deceased that takes place in August. Family members travel to the gravesite of their loved ones to spend time with one another and to present offerings to ancestors. It is not unusual for family
to introduce a newborn baby, fiancé, or spouse to the grave on this occasion. Family members will wash the headstone with water from wooden buckets.
Favorite foods of the departed are enjoyed and often left behind for the ancestors to savor. One popular food item to bring on this occasion is skewers of cucumberand eggplant. The cucumber represents the shōryō-uma or the soul horse. It is believed this entity carries the spirit to their loved ones to celebrate. The eggplant represents the shōryō-ushi or soul cow. This entity will guide the spirit back to the afterlife when the meeting is complete.
That brings us to the United States. Believe it or not, cemetery culture used to have a much different landscape. Not long ago the cemetery could have very well been one of the most important and busiest meeting places in town. During the height of the Victorian era of the late 19th century, many folks enjoyed meals in cemeteries regularly. This peaceful stone garden would have been the closest thing
to a public park for many towns. Another probable cause to the popularity of dining outdoors in this way was largely impart to the various airborne illnesses that ravaged the country. Which has an eerie similarity to the most recent epidemic of COVID-19 and the shift to outdoor dining in many establishments. During Victorian times, death was a regular visitor to many families. Some people became morbidly intrigued with cemeteries in order to feel closer to these loved ones they missed so
dearly. As time went on and more planned public parks sprang up across the country and this beloved pastime began to disappear. In current times, it may be less popular, but certainly not impossible to partake in. Let’s follow the examples set by Georgia, Greece, Mexico, The Philippines, Guatemala, Japan and so many others and break down the stigma in the United States surrounding cemetery celebrations. Pack your picnic basket and find a local cemetery today! A couple of suggestions for
any curious cemetery enthusiasts would be as follows: check the website of the property for any restrictions, call the office and get permission, make sure to be respectful of those around you while visiting, and remove all trash of any kind when
leaving. Bon Appétit my friends!
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